Monday, 4 June 2012

A Choral Treat


Interior of the Riga Synagogue
We have spent the morning on Riga's cultural architecture but in many ways the gem has been left to the end - the only synagogue remaining in Riga out of the original fourteen.
Known as the Peitav Shul, this was one of originally four choral synagogues in Riga, conducted by the famous cantor Abram Abramis, its choir was popular among Jewish and non Jewish audiences.

After Riga was occupied by the Nazis, all the synagogues in the city were burnt down on July 4, 1941. The Peitav Shul was the only one escape because it was located in the Old Town and there was a risk that the fire would spread to nearby buildings.
Interior of the Riga Synagogue

During the war the shul was used as a warehouse. After the war it was learned that the eastern wall of the synagogue, where Aron Kodesh was located, had been concealed. This deed, which saved the Torah scrolls from destruction, is attributed to Gustavs Shaurums, a priest from the nearby reformist church.

Services resumed after the war. During Soviet times this was actually one of the few synagogues functioning in whole of the USSR as well as one of just four that maintained a choir and despite the unofficial prohibition of Jewish religious practices and constant surveillance by the national security bodies, the synagogue remained the centre of Jewish life in the city.

Today it is the only functioning synagogue in Riga but was restored very recently - in 2009 - at a cost of $2.8m.

It also has a unique inscription above the Ark which translated means "Blessed Be G-d Who Saved Me From The Teeth Of The Oppressor"

The result is we are treated to an absolutely stunning building inside, completed in a very unusual Egyptian style.   We rest our feet while our guide explains the history of the shul - and also that it achieves a weekly minyan of some 150 people today, though we gather not all these will be Jewish.

"They come for the food (ie kiddush)" he explains.  The shul is run by a Lubavitch Rabbi today.

We daven Mincha at the shul.  This is undoubtedly one with the best acoustics I have been in.  It must have been a real treat to listen to a Cantor and Choir here during the war years.

We move on to lunch at the Restaurant and then round to corner to the Community Centre.


'Tzoros' Artefact At The Jewish Museum
If you were imagining the Centre as something the size of Yeshurun, think again.   This building, occuping an entire block on four stories, takes its roots in the heritage of Riga Jewry in the 19th Century.

The building was given back to the community in 1988 and is the centre of Jewish life in Riga. Various Jewish organizations, creative groups, clubs and studios work in the community house, the Jewish Museum is located here, as are the library, youth and community centres.

We marvel at the size of this place, though also realise it is too big for the community to keep up.  Nevertheless, it is an 'average Tuesday' and the place is buzzing. 

As we make our way to the Jewish Museum we are passed by a young girl hurrying to ballet class while another, older, member of the community looks at us inquisitively before hurrying to the library.

The Theatre At The Riga Jewish Community Centre
We are taken on a tour of the theatre - easily on its own as big as Yeshurun's prayer hall.  It is a relic of a bygone era - but this was the point at which you begin to wonder : itf they have this in Riga, why don't we have one in Edgware?

Then we go upstairs to the Jewish Musuem.  At one level, this is 'just another Jewish museum' but what perhaps distinguishes this from the bigger named ones in Washington, Los Angeles, London and Jerusalem is that this one actually resides in the place where most of the anecdoates and artefacts come from!

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